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accrna. 



A TR I P TO THE 

YOSEMITE 
VALLEY 



BY 

Victoria Howell 



Letters giving the Author's Experience on a ten 
days' trip 



J. HOWELL AND COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 

961 BROADWAY 

OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA 

190 8 



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JUN 4 lb?ub 



Copyright 1908 
J. HOWELL & COMPANY 




ENGRAVED AND PRINTED BY 

M. L. Rimes Ili-ustrating Company 

SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



To the dear Friends 

who would enjoy our thought of the Wonders 

of the Yosemite, 

we dedicate these letters 

It is a feeble portrayal of Nature's master-work 
in the heart of the Sierras 

Tongue and pen fail in the attempt to express 

the feelings which the sublime 

scenes inspire 

With gratitude and Thankfulness I am 

lovingly 

VICTORIJt HOWELL 



\ 



INTRODUCTION 




E are apt to class the Yosemite 
Valley among other famous wonders 
of the world, to be visited only under 
great difficulties or with enormous 
expense. Either or both reasons 
make the home-loving people, with 
moderate incomes, put off among 
the impossibilities a trip which, at the present 
time, is neither difficult nor expensive. 

When I came to California, nineteen years 
ago, one of the first things I hoped to do was 
to visit the Yosemite Valley, but as months and 
years went by the possibility seemed to grow 
farther from me, also the mountains, and my 
hope of ever taking the trip became misty and 
vague, until one day the thought was presented 
to my husband and myself that we " ought 
to go," and "now is the time." We 
decided to consult a ticket agent, whom we 
knew, about it. The result was we purchased 
the popular fifty-dollar round-trip ticket, which 
the agent recommended for a ten days' trip, 

We started on the evening train from Oak- 
land, Friday, June 23, 1905. 




A perfect imitation of a bridal veil " 
Page 11 



THE STAGE RIDE 



Wawona Hotel (en route), 

Saturday night, June 24, 1905. 

Dear Ones at Home: — 




ID you ever wish to be in two 
different places at the same time? 
Well, that is the way we feel to- 
night. We would like to be at home 
with you and at the same time we 
cannot help feeling glad that we are 
here. Last night we had a berth in 
a lovely new Pullman car and Morpheus took 
possession of us as we rode away. We arrived 
at Raymond Hotel about 6:30 this morning, 
where an appetizing breakfast of fruit, fried 
chicken, eggs, biscuit, Johnny cake, French 
fried potatoes and coffee, awaited us and was 
nicely served. 

By 7:30 we were off in four-seated stage 
coaches, each with two span of horses. There 
were livery stations about every two hours 
apart, where the horses were exchanged for 
fresh ones. At noon we all stopped at a large 
country hotel, named "Ahwahnee," for a very 
nice lunch, served temptingly in a large dining- 
hall, where a half dozen or more tables were 
spread with fresh white linen; a beautiful 
bouquet of roses was in the center of each. A 
long, wide porch 'neath sheltering trees and 
vines, with rocking-chairs and benches, offered 
comfort and cheer. That hour's rest and re- 
freshment is one of the welcome and never-to- 
be-forgotten features of the stage ride to the 
Yosemite Valley. 

We have traveled forty-four miles of up hill 
and down, in crossing two ridges of mountains; 
the highest point, 5,210 feet, being reached at 
4 o'clock this afternoon; and I wish you could 



THE YOSEMITE 

have the view of the country and the tall pine 
trees that we have seen to-day. 

It is very pleasant here in the verdant valley 
of the South Fork of the Merced River, sur- 
rounded by mountains and forests, cool, soft 
atmosphere and bright blue sky overhead. 
"Wawona" is the Indian name for "Big Tree," 
and is quite a resort, people sta3ring from one 
week or one month to three weeks or three 
months, or, like us, only for a night or two on 
their way to and from the Valley; so that there 
are several dozen people here every night dur- 
ing the season. Five stages, including our own, 
arrived to-night from Raymond, with from five 
to twelve persons in each, besides those who 
came in yesterday and have been to-day on a 
picnic to the Mariposa Big Trees, and those who 
are returning home from the Valley; so there 
is plenty of bustle and music, comparing and 
exchanging of notes. We have rooms in a 
cottage, clean and comfortable. Many people 
prefer sleeping in tents, so they were all taken, 
but we are well satisfied. The candles are 
a novelty with their white China holders. 

We enjoyed our dinner and afterward 
walked across the way to the studio of the 
celebrated Thomas Hill, where we saw many 
fine paintings, mostly of the Yosemite. I forgot 
to mention that at Raymond Hotel an agent 
will check anything you wish to leave until 
you return from the Valley, and he also fur- 
nishes hats and dusters. I left my hat and 
paid 75 cents for a Mexican hat, and father 
paid 25 cents for one. I put my veil around 
mine, and you ought to have seen the crowd of 
us — ^we looked like robbers. I will enclose a 
Mariposa lily, which I took from the bouquet 
on the table to-night. Mariposa means "butter- 
fly." Goodnight. 

FROM cTWOTHER. 



IN MARIPOSA GROVE 



Wawona Hotel, Mariposa Co., Gal. 

Morning of June 25, 1905. 

Dear Ones All: — 




E had a fine breakfast and are to 
start at 9 o'clock for the Big Trees, 
a ride of eight miles. The night was 
cool and I slept under all that was on 
the bed — a heavy white spread and 
two pairs of warm blankets. The 
air is cool and inspiring and the 
water soft, pure and cold ; the sun shines bright 
and warm. My knit shawl is just what I need. 
Love and greeting to all. . . . Evening of 
same day: — We had a pleasant day and have 
seen the Big Trees. It was another ride up the 
mountain side midst a forest of pine, cedar, fir 
and occasional giant yellow and sugar pine 
trees, besides smaller growth and shrubs of 
diflferent varieties. The forest was not so 
dense but that we had favorable glimpses of 
the surrounding valley and opposite cliffs. 
There are over 600 Sequoias scattered and 
grouped over the side and top of the mountain, 
covering, I should think, 500 acres of ground 
and ranging in height from 200 to 300 feet, 
and from thirty to one hundred and thirty feet 
in circumference. My neck ached from looking 
upward to find the tops of the trees. It was 
truly a wonderful sight — a privilege to be 
grateful for. 

Centrally located in the midst of the grove 
of giants is a well-built log cabin with a long, 
wide veranda and a large old-fashioned fire- 
place, over which fire at lunch time our 
coffee was made. There are also arranged upon 
tables pictures of the scenic wonders, curios 
and so forth. 



THE YOSEMITE 

Each driver spread a picnic lunch for his 
load of hungry people in a log dining pavilion 
having tables and benches, which are there for 
that purpose; our luncheon we all heartily en- 
joyed. In front of the cabin, a few yards 
away, there is a well, five or six feet deep and 
three feet across, neatly walled up with stone, 
with a low fence around it, full of cool, soft, 
delicious water, the most refreshing we ever 
drank. We named it "Jacob's Well." One 
of the fallen "Giants," near the cabin, has a 
flight of stairs built up on one side of it, for the 
benefit of visitors. I climbed the stairs and sat 
for a little while on the tree near the base, 
there obtaining, I think, the finest view of the 
forest that could be had on the grounds. There 
is a scarlet plant growing in places under the 
large trees called the "snow plant." It comes 
up through the snow in the spring time and is 
very beautiful even now ahooting up through 
the pine needles. 

After about three hours of sight-seeing in 
and around this wonderful spot, it was with 
regret that we took our seats in the stage to 
return. We started out by a different road 
from the one by which we entered the forest, 
leading through the grove and winding up the 
mountain. A photographer took our pictures 
while we stopped in the tree called "Wawona," 
and father paid for one, which will be sent 
home as soon as finished. You will see that 
father, with his long beard, is the most promi- 
nent figure in the photograph. We rode on 
upward until we reached the highest point, 
"Wawona Point," an elevation of 7,140 feet; 
this is over 3,000 feet from the valley below, 
where the green meadow land slightly tinged 
with olive and bordered with a heavy forest 
growth, shone in the sunlight from such a 
height like a brilliant gem in a dark setting. 
A snowy peak clearly seen across the valley 

8 



IN MARIPOSA GROVE 

at the right cooled the atmosphere and was 
welcome, for the sun was quite warm. The 
homeward ride around the mountain downward 
was very pleasant and quickly made. Many 
lovely flowers grow wild in the forests, but I 
have not time just now to write about them. 
We start to-morrow morning at 6:30 on the 
remaining twenty-eight miles between us and 
our destination. This day has seemed as sacred, 
I am sure, in the way that we have spent it, as 
it would have been in our little church at home. 
So, a good night to you all. 

MOTHER. 




ENTERING THE VALLEY 

Wawona. 

Monday morning, 6:30, June 26, 1905. 

Dear Loraine and All : — 

RAP on our door at five and a 
pitcher of hot water, think of it! 
and the air like snow. The sun risen 
brig:htly over the mountains, the 
walks white with frost; breakfast of 
mush, hot cakes and coffee; a big 
wood fire in the grate, and now a 

call: "All aboard for the Yosemite." Good-by 

till later. 




Camp Yosemite, foot of cliff near the Yosemite 
Palls. The same day, 1 :45 P. M. :— 

Here we are at our journey's end in a most 
ideal camping place. We have just finished 
luncheon in the long ell-shaped dining pavilion, 
with tent roof, long wooden tables and willow- 
seated chairs. The service is good. A bouquet 
of wild azalias, white and cream in color, and 
very beautiful, was on each table. I will en- 
close one which a young lady has taken and 
fastened upon my waist; they are very fra- 
grant. A lovely pebbly stream of water, such 
as the children would enjoy wading in, runs 
along by the dining-hall midst grass and thickly 
growing shrubs. 

The trip from Wawona here was mountainous 
and grand ; a tremendous forest growth covered 
the mountains and canyons. There were pine, 
fir, cedar, oak and other kinds of trees, and 
many varieties of shrubs and wild flowers — 
the blue and white lupine, the wild iris, blue- 
bells, blue and white wild lilac, a common red 
flower called "paint brush," and a small shrub 
(about the size of a blueberry bush), with a 
white blossom, resembling the strawberry bloa- 



THE YOSEMITE 

som, commonly called "bear clover," that car- 
pets the mountains in some places like grass. 

As we neared the Valley every turn around 
the mountain was watched with eager expect- 
ancy for a familiar scene previously obtained 
from photographs; and at last, when the bold 
side of El Capitan burst into sight, we could 
scarcely await the time and drive still needed 
to bring us closer to its walls. But soon, and 
with rapid approach on its downward grade, 
we reached the place called "Artist's Point," 
where that beautiful picture of the Valley is 
so often taken, Bridal Veil Falls at the right, 
El Capitan at the left and the Valley with the 
river and the distant cliffs between. Here our 
joy and expectations were filled to o'erflowing, 
and a sense of wonder and awe stole over us. 
We were loth to leave the sublime scene, even 
to go forward to a nearer view. However, a 
few turns more brought us to the floor of our 
beloved Yosemite. 

Inspiration Point stood before us in majestic 
height as if on guard against intruders. Soon 
we were directly at the foot of Bridal Veil 
Palls. While the driver watered the horses we 
stood on the little bridge and watched the dash 
and spray in the sunlight of that 940 feet — a 
perfect imitation of a bridal veil. But the fall 
was continuous in fresh sweeps of spray ex- 
actly as though it were, that instant, falling 
backward from the crown of the head down 
over the bridal gown. I think I have never 
before gazed upon so beautiful a sight. 

As we rode on we saw near El Capitan a tiny 
rivulet and spray falling from a more dizzy 
height of rock. It is called "The Ribbon." 
Meandering along (we still had three miles to 
go) by the side of the lovely Merced River, 
under the shadow of oak, fir and pine, we were 
attracted by the Cathedral Rocks and Spires, 

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ENTERING "THE VALLEY" 

The Three Brothers, Sentinel Bock, and at last 
by the celebrated Yosemite Falls, which, in a 
way, are more grand, if not as lovely as the 
Bridal Veil Falls. Yosemite is the Indian name 
for "Large Grizzly Bear," and the name is cer- 
tainly applicable to these falls. The upper fall 
of 1,600 feet exceeds in volume, for such a dis- 
tance, any other known fall; the middle fall 
and cascades have a height of 534 feet, and the 
lower fall 500, making altogether over 2,600 
feet. While marveling at the beauty and magni- 
ficence of the scene we approached gradually 
nearer until (within half a mile of the Falls, 
and directly in front of them) we stood before 
the Sentinel Hotel, a large comfortable looking 
place on the Merced River, and the central 
figure of a short street lined with cottages, 
studios, store and post-office. 

After unloading passengers and baggage we 
rode on to Yosemite Camp, near the Falls, and 
within the distinct roar of the cataract. Now 
we are fairly ensconced, ready (like every one 
else here) to do that which will bring or accom- 
plish the most in a short period of time — each 
individual being free to follow his own inclina- 
tions and tastes in the choice of the many at- 
tractions at hand. We like it here very much; 
the tents are arranged for one or two persons 
as desired and are quite comfortable. There is 
a porter to wait on the guests and maids to 
keep the tents in order, besides the general 
manager and her assistants, who look after the 
grounds and the special comfort and pleasure 
of the guests. The mail leaves here at 6 P. M., 
and leaves the hotel in the morning. There is 
a telephone system connecting all points in the 
Valley with Glacier Hotel and Wawona Hotel; 
the latter place is connected with Raymond by 
telegraph, so that communication can be had 
with the outside world at any time. 

Good night. mother. 

12 




LOST ARROW TRAIL 

Tuesday evening, June 27, 1905. 
Dear Mary, Edith, Loraine and All : — 

NOTHER day has passed; more 
wonders and beauties are added to 
our store of Yosemite memories. 
Last night after dinner we started 
by "The Lost Arrow Trail" to take 
the ten-minute walk to the foot of 
the Yosemite Falls. The foot-path 
guided us through the trees and rocks, then 
across a stream on a bridge, made by felling a 
large yellow pine tree across it; a railing was 
fastened along one side and by shaving off the 
top sufficient to flatten it a substantial bridge 
was formed. This sort of bridge spanned the 
five different streams (ten to fifteen feet in 
width), which were to be crossed on this trail. 
The streams all begin at the Falls, and, after 
winding their crooked way for a short distance, 
come together again at different points, form- 
ing the Yosemite River which, farther along, 
flows into the Merced River. 

We passed through a beautiful wood emerg- 
ing into an open drive-way near the Falls, at 
a point where tourists come in carriages to ob- 
tain the finest view possible of the Yosemite 
Falls. Following a narrow, well-beaten path, 
up and over a few rocks, we stood right in the 
spray and thundering noise of the tumbling 
waters which fell upon the rocks beneath as if 
in frenzied attempt to leap away from the cliff 
which had caused them such a mighty fall. 
It is impossible to describe the varying moods 
of the stream from the time it starts over the 
edge of the cliff until it reaches the rocks 
below. Sometimes it appears to be all spray; 
again it comes down something in the same 
way that a sky rocket sends out a shower of 



THE YOSEMITE 

bright white drops. Entranced, we lingered, 
until the darkening shades warned us to return. 

This morning father arose early, and while I 
was enjoying a nice nap he walked half a mile 
over to the hotel, and from there a mile and 
a half to the other camp — Camp Curry. He 
returned in time for breakfast, and suggested 
we take a lunch and spend the day at "Happy 
Isles, ' ' which is only half a mile beyond Camp 
Curry. This we did, starting about 10 o'clock. 
For a little way we enjoyed the walk under the 
tall trees on the bank of the river, until it 
wound off and away through the meadows. We 
then followed a trail near the road side among 
the rocks, bushes and young trees along the 
cliff underneath * ' Glacier Point. ' ' About noon, 
after a leisurely walk, we arrived at the Islands, 
which are so happily situated at the mouth of 
the gorge and canyon of the Merced River, 
where, at this point, it forms the turbulent, 
foaming rapids, encircling the two beautiful 
wooded islands, 60 by 200 feet in extent. Pic- 
turesque bridges and paths enhance the beauty 
of this lovely spot, aiding the visitor in his 
enjoyment. 

We ate our luncheon while seated upon the 
rocks near the water and then crossed over 
a bridge to the path along by the rapids, until 
we found the regular trail leading a mile and 
a half farther up the canyon to "Vernal Falls 
and Rapids." These falls are 80 feet across 
and 350 feet high, the rocks below forming, for 
several himdred feet, tremendous rapids. The 
day was too far spent to stay as long as we 
would have liked, but we declared our inten- 
tion of leaving the Valley by this trail to 
"Glacier Point." And this decision helped 
us to be vidlling to return at once to our camp, 
where we arrived at 6 P. M., in time for din- 
ner. It is now bed time. Lovingly, 

MOTHER. 
14 




Redected in the clear, still water 
Pa.^e 15 




SUNRISE IN "MIRROR LAKE" 

Camp Yosemite. 

Wednesday afternoon, June 28, 1905. 

Dear Ones All: — 

E are very happy here, and this 
afternoon are enjoying camp life in 
hammocks and adjustable chairs 
under large spreading oaks. The 
center of the camp, where every- 
body congregates, must cover a full 
acre or more. A little stream, five 
feet wide, separates these grounds 
from the dining-hall, kitchen, store and bath 
houses; several small rustic bridges crossing 
it look very picturesque. The water in the 
creek is clear, soft and cold. There are over 
one hundred tents around about under the 
trees. Candles are used at night in the tents, 
but throughout the grounds there are large, 
square, coal-oil lanterns set upon shelves that 
are fastened to the trees. Folding chairs and 
folding spring- wire beds are used; also granite 
wash bowls and pitchers. The floors are wood, 
carpeted with heavy brown duck. Every one 
seems happy and contented. 

This morning we ate breakfast at 5:30 in 
order to reach "Mirror Lake" (three miles dis- 
tant), in time to see the sun rise in the mir- 
rored depths below. Sky, trees and cliffs are 
reflected in the clear, still water, more wonder- 
fully than can possibly be pictured by photo- 
graph. The lake is so sheltered 'neath "Half 
Dome Mountain" that the sun must climb high 
in the heavens and rise over the top of the cliff 
before it can shine on the water; and as it 
nears the edge of the cliff the reflection of the 
sky in the water as it reddens and lightens and 
then slowly reveals the full orb is a revelation 
of wonder and delight. We spent two hours 

15 



THE YOSEMITE 

walking back and forth along by the edge of 
the lake watching the various reflections of 
landscape, and then started homeward. 

When about half the distance on our way we 
saw two signs, one pointing toward the left to 
"Mineral Spring" and the other toward the 
right to "Indian's Cave." At the spring we 
found a keg sunken in the ground full of clear, 
cold mineral water, which flowed continuously, 
and had a good drink; also enjoyed the shade 
of some large yellow pines and oaks. We found 
the cave to be quite large and roomy, formed 
by a large boulder resting at the sides upon 
several smaller ones, and used at one time for 
a shelter by the Indians. When nearing our 
camp we turned to the right into a foot- 
path by the cliffs, which led to the cabin 
and tent of some Indians. Here we stopped 
for a few moments and talked with them. One 
of the squaws was ironing some clothes which 
she had taken to wash; she stood under a tree 
near a small camp fire, where her irons were 
heating. She comes to our camp every day to 
get the food left from the tables. Her aged 
gray-haired mother was squatted upon the 
ground by the open tent weaving a basket. 
There were four "Chuck 'ah" (meaning store 
houses) about twenty feet away for nuts and 
acorns. They are very curiously built, thatched 
with pine branches (points downward to keep 
out mice and squirrels) . We gave the old squaw 
a quarter and then continued our walk by the 
foot-path towards home, where we arrived soon 
after noon, and — well — it made a six-mile 
walk and we think that is pretty good for 
to-day. 

MOTHER. 



le 




DOWN THE RIVER 



Camp Yosemite. 

Thursday evening, June 29, 1905. 

Dear Loraine and All: — 

UR stay here in the Yosemite is 
fast speeding away. This morning 
we started out at seven (with our 
luncheon) for a walk down the Valley 
toward Bridal Veil Falls. We went 
slowly along, stopping now and then 
under the trees to enjoy our sur- 
roundings — the stream, the meadows, the cliffs, 
and the falls in the distance. We saw many 
beautiful camping places, and built airy 
castles of future visits to this enchanted val- 
ley. In one place we found a pebbly beach 
'neath the shade of evergreens and enjoyed a 
cool drink of water. Across, on the opposite 
side of the river among the trees, we saw in 
pasture some fine looking donkeys, or burros, 
both old and young. People ride them in 
climbing the mountain trails. It was on the 
river bank near this point that we located 
several places, where photographers obtain 
the views we all admire, of the peerless El 
Capitan, towering high above the shimmering 
surface of the river at its base and reflected 
in the limpid water, which here is so bounded 
as to have the appearance of a lake. Near 
here, also, we were able to approach and appre- 
ciate somewhat, the Cathedral Rocks, and to 
feel the sanctity inspired by their lofty pinna- 
cles and massive walls. 

By noon we had arrived at the bridge which 
crosses the Merced River. Here a gradual rocky 
descent of 500 feet in the river forms the beau- 
tiful cascades, one of the many wonders of the 
Valley. About five minutes later we reached 

17 



THE YOSEMITE 

the "Bridal Veil Falls," and on the rocks, near 
the rapids, ate our lunch. A beautiful mottled 
gray squirrel scampered in and out of the rocks 
about us watching and begging for something 
to eat; he would sit up on a boulder in front 
of us and nibble away the bits we gave him as 
familiarly as though we were old acquaint- 
ances; he was as fine a one of his kind as we 
have ever seen. 

The boulders and rocks at the foot of the 
falls separate the rush of waters into three 
streams, and from the bridges, which cross 
these rapids, visitors have three fine points of 
view. We climbed up over the rocks by a 
foot-path nearly to the foot of the falls, where 
the spray was like rain, and where, with the 
sun shining upon the mist, a perfect double 
rainbow was formed, very beautiful to look at. 
The falls seemed so ethereal and so easily af- 
fected by the slightest breeze that they ap- 
peared like vapor. The water would sometimes 
fall directly down in a light, airy sweeping 
train; and then a stir of wind would send the 
entire volume off to one side — the mist and 
spray spreading and floating over the side of 
the cliff and rocks like a cloud. Again a slight 
motion would send it entirely to the other side, 
but with such grace and beauty that we were 
lost in wonder at the magnificence and loveli- 
ness. We were much impressed with the height 
of the falls, and consequent fall of spray. 

At 4 P. M. we turned our steps reluctantly 
homeward, crossing the bridge and returning by 
the road on the other side of the river. It was 
four miles each way. To the left El Capitan 
loomed high and white and imposing. About 
half way home father saw a rattlesnake by 
the road side and struck it near the head with 
his staff. It had eight rattles, and was two 
and a half feet long. Tying a slip-knot over 

18 




"Tin 



nils in the distance" 
Paue 17 



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Vf .^a//^ 



DOWN THE RIVER 

its head, he trailed it home. It made quite a 
sensation in our camp, as tiiey are very rarely 
seen in the Valley. The porter preserved the 
skin for him and said it was a fine one. Our 
road led along by the cliffs, as we neared the 
Yosemite Falls, and we entered the camp by 
the ' ' Lost Arrow Trail. ' ' 

We are thinking of starting Saturday morn- 
ing up the long trail to "Glacier Point" and 
going out of the Valley from there. They say 
the sunrise and sunset from that point is very 
grand. Last evening after dinner we visited 
the cemetery, which is only a short distance 
from here, and which contains about two 
dozen graves. We noticed particularly the 
place prepared by Mr. Galen Clark, the dis- 
coverer of the "Mariposa Big Tree Grove." It 
is a fenced enclosure about fifteen feet square, 
with a grave in the center and a Sequoia, ten or 
twelve feet high, growing in each comer. A 
granite rock with one side polished had his 
name marked on it. He is now 91 years of age, 
and is a pioneer of the Valley; he has charge 
of this camp and is always around on the 
grounds, ready to entertain the guests or give 
any information. Mr. Clark has written a little 
book describing the Indians of the Valley and 
their legends of the mysteries of the Yosemite. 
We bought one of them (50 cents), in which, 
by our request, he wrote with pen and ink his 
name and date of birth. In this book you will 
see a picture of the ' ' Chuck 'ah, ' ' which I spoke 
of in my last letter to you. 

We trust all is well with you. Will probably 
be at Wawona Sunday night, and Monday even- 
ing take the train for home. With love, 

MOTHER. 



19 





Til 



AMONG THE STUDIOS 

Camp Yosemite. 

Friday evening, June 30, 1905. 

Dear Ones All : — 

HIS day has been, in a way, event- 
ful. We slept soundly in our tent 
until 7 o'clock. After breakfast 
walked half a mile over to the 
studios to examine pictures and 
curios. Our appreciation of the 
artist's thought and attempts to por- 
tray the wonders of the Yosemite is much more 
satisfactory for having gazed at the scenes and 
felt somewhat the inspiration which must come 
to every beholder of this mighty revelation of 
sublimity and grandeur. We made a few pur- 
chases of pictures and curios and were so in- 
terested that luncheon time came very unex- 
pectedly, hurrying us back to camp, although 
we could not refrain from lingering a moment 
longer at the bridge near the hotel, where the 
river is especially beautiful and placid. 

After luncheon we started out on the enchant- 
ing little pathway (with the mystic legendary 
name "Lost Arrow Trail") to make the Falls 
a farewell visit, as this is to be our last evening 
in the Valley. Following the trail through 
the lovely wood, every little way crossing a 
shallow pebbly stream, we v/ere soon out to 
the carriage drive-way, and went on up the 
trail nearly to the foot of the Falls into the 
mist which sweeps over the rocks and boulders 
for many feet, like a gust of fine rain blown 
about by the wind. The path circled here so 
that we quickly came out of the mist and stood 
upon a rock where, in the presence of that stu- 
pendous magnitude, we were held in mingled 
fascination and awe. The impressions of that 
hour can never be forgotten. With solemn 
hearts, regretfully we turned from this attract- 
ive spot. Our arrangements have been made 
for leaving very early in the morning. 

MOTHER. 



80 



flf'-!i 







Towering' high above the shimmerin.i 
stirface of the river" Page 17 



C)/ Ocr/ie'Azff. 



THE LONG TRAIL 

Glacier Hotel. 

Saturday evening, July 1, 1905. 
Dear Loraine, Edith and Mary : — 




HIS has been perhaps the greatest 
of all our days in the Yosemite. We 
walked the long trail from our camp 
in the Valley to Glacier Point, a dis- 
tance of fifteen miles. On rising at 
four this morning v/e made hurried 
preparation to leave our beautiful 
camp, with all its delightful attractions. The 
air was fresh, soft and cool; the birds were 
singing their morning greetings, and the roar 
of the Falls reminded us of the distant locomo- 
tive thundering its warning approach. Mr. 
Galen Clark was the only one astir as we left 
the grounds. We bade him good-by, and were 
soon well on our way, turning often to gain a 
last view of the Yosemite Falls. A short walk 
brought us to the Merced River, with its deep, 
broad, full sweep, smooth surface, grassy 
banks and overhanging branches; the river, 
which to-day we were to follow back to its 
upper falls, ere we left its cool refreshing 
waters. 

The Royal Arches, North Dome and Washing- 
ton Column stood out in the clear morning 
light ; and walking amidst a profusion of sweet- 
scented plants, flowering shrubs and beautiful 
trees of endless variety, surrounded and pro- 
tected by the towering cliffs, we felt as though 
we were in the "King's Garden." Looking up 
to Glacier Point, over 3,000 feet above, the Gov- 
ernment flag-staff appeared to be only a few 
inches in height, and we could scarcely believe 
that by following the trail, upon which we 
were about to enter, we should ever arrive at 
the lofty summit above us. However, our faith 
in the directions given and the assured results 
ai 



THE YOSEMITE 

precluded a doubt and we entered the trail up 
the mountain-side, lightly and joyfully, with 
staff, package and luncheon, all of which we 
would need ere we reached our baggage, which 
was to be sent out of the Valley by the stage 
to Wawona Hotel. 

By 6:30 A. M. we were at Vernal Falls and 
ready for luncheon, which we ate near "Lady 
Franklin Rock." After a cool drink from the 
side of the river which dashed and foamed in 
the turbulent rapids we started for another 
climb up the zigzag trail ; it led back and forth 
again and again a dozen or more times, some 
of the turns long and some short ; at this point 
the mountain side was well covered with trees 
and undergrowth and did not seem as steep 
as it actually was. Up, up we toiled, stopping 
every turn or two to sit upon a rock and look 
around, for our ambition was not merely to 
gain a particular destination, but to enjoy 
everything about us as we went along. A lady, 
mounted upon a gentle white steed, passed us 
by, in company with a party of others who were 
riding on burros. At last we reached the neces- 
sary height to make the turn round to the 
other side of the moimtain, although we were 
still several hundred feet below the top. And 
yet, to look off into the canyon, hundreds of 
feet downward, the sight was almost appalling, 
although grand, beyond description. After 
winding around a little way the path led down- 
ward, where we soon, with rapid step, came into 
full view of the once hidden Nevada Palls. 
From this point we found the solution of the 
mystery; a new territory, with heights and 
possibilities beyond opened out before us, and 
Dame Nature, seemingly so complex, became 
simplified again. 

The distance between the Vernal and Nevada 
Falls is fully three-quarters of a mile, and 

32 



THE LONG TRAIL 

forms a very interesting shelf of mountain 
scenery, as well as furnishing a pathway, not 
only for a very large river flowing from the 
vast water shed of the higher Sierras, but also 
a pathway for man, whereby he may within a 
comparatively short distance reach from the 
Valley to the higher lands above. The channel 
formed for the course of the river between 
these two falls is very peculiar. At the 
foot of the Nevada the rocky river bed, with 
quick descent and many boulders, creates 
several rods of cascades and rapids; then for 
perhaps 200 feet, at an incline of fifty feet, the 
granite rock is almost as smooth as the slating 
for roofs; the river running over it at the 
rate of eighty miles an hour, with a depth of 
but six to ten inches, and a width of not less 
than thirty to eighty feet, is a solid sheet of 
water which, glistening in the sunlight, gives 
the appearance of silver; hence its name, 
"Silver Apron." 

This immense sheet of water drops suddenly 
into a pool (named "Emerald Pool") that is 
sufficiently large and of such form that imme- 
diately the water becomes still, smooth and 
placid; and in the change takes on the most 
beautiful hues of emerald green. Here again 
the river emerges, flowing in a natural ordinary 
stream for 200 feet, until it reaches the Vernal 
Falls (Cataract of Diamonds), where the 
volume of water dashes downward 350 feet; 
and from the railing the appearance is that of 
a perpetual fall of vast quantities of large, bril- 
liant diamonds, sparkling amid the sunbeams 
and spray, so alluring and yet so impossible to 
reach. The rock formation on one side at the 
head of these falls is laid up like a parapet, to 
hem in, as it were, the outlet for this vast trea- 
sure stream of wealth. A large table-rock is 
here spread out as if for the use of spectators 

23 



THE YOSEMITE 

to stand upon and gaze in wonder at the 
grandeur. The tall fir, pine and other growths 
skirted the banks beside the Silver Apron and 
Pool, and a path winding along through this 
wood made a sylvan retreat, where, upon a 
rock, we sat in the cool shade and ate from our 
luncheon, for it was now nearly 10 o'clock. 

After lingering a while to enjoy the lovely 
scene (where, indeed, we longed to spend the 
entire day), we returned regretfully to the 
traU, whither many others mostly with horses 
or donkeys, had preceded us. First, across the 
rustic bridge over the rapids, and then on and 
around a little way and up on to a glacier pla- 
teau and meadow, where were two or three de- 
serted cabins. Here we turned aside into a 
narrow path leading downward until we stood 
close to the river's edge, and nearer to the foot 
of the Nevada Falls, where the water is very 
turbulent. Retracing again back to the trail, 
we drank from a brook near by, and waited for 
a pack-train of donkeys to pass on their way 
down from the Upper Merced River, where (we 
were told by one of the workmen), a bridge 
and roadway had been built at Merced Lake 
some twenty-five miles away. 

Our trail from this point became quite steep, 
with turns at short distances, up the wooded 
mountain side, and within a few yards and in 
full view of the falls. It was very picturesque. 
It seemed wonderful how those immense pine 
trees, growing there on the rocks near the top 
of the mountain, could send out roots of suffi- 
cient size, depth and breadth to support the 
great trunk, extending upward 150 feet. 

We ascended quite rapidly and yet it was 
noon by the time we reached the upper plateau, 
near the entrance to the Little Ycsemite Valley. 
The trail to Cloud's Rest branches off to the 
left, and to the right we could see at a distance 

24 





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"The Merced river with its deep, broad, 
full sweep" Page 21 



Aitrt/i l^cme. 



THE LONG TRAIL 

across another mountain top, Glacier Hotel, for 
which we were bound. Here we sat down upon 
the rocks in the cool inviting shade, with the 
water rushing along at our feet. Opening our 
package we finished our supply of luncheon and 
drank of the soft, delicious water. It was only 
a walk of a few yards across a glacier of rock, 
and down a dozen steps which were cut into the 
rocks, in order to reach the railing at the top 
of the mighty Nevada Falls — its torrents of 
water tearing and whirling downward 700 feet 
into its rocky caldron. We heard an exclama- 
tion (very expressive and appropriate) by an 
English tourist who had just turned away: "It 
isatvful! It is diabolical!" After gazing for 
a few moments into the awful depths we went 
back over the plateau to where the rapidly flow- 
ing river narrowed suddenly into a rocky chasm 
made rough and broken by huge boulders; 
standing upon the bridge, just over the head 
of the chasm, we shuddered at the awfulness of 
the mighty power so near to us and so terrible 
to behold. 

But we could not linger, for a long moun- 
tainous pass was yet before us, ere we should 
reach the end of our day's journey. We climbed 
the zigzag trail up a steep mountain side, then 
walked around to the other side of the moun- 
tain and down again to the canyon of the Illil- 
louette River, which forms here the beautiful 
Illillouette Falls, 600 feet high. Crossing the 
bridge we began another steep ascent which 
soon woimd around to a place where a path 
branched off leading to a particular point, from 
which these falls are in full view and seem 
almost as lovely as the Vernal Falls, though 
not so wide. Again we started onward and 
upward upon a long toilsome trail with many 
a rest upon some rock and a drink at some 
brooklet, the trees and shrubs all about us and 



25 



THE YOSEMITE 

in full view of the canyon and peaks to the 
east of us. 

Passing through a thicket of the shrub Man- 
zanita (the Spanish name for "Little Apple"), 
which grows plentifully upon the mountains, we 
picked some of the berries and ate them and 
found the flavor to be like the apple. Gradually 
our trail led toward the Point, until about 6 :30, 
when we arrived at the hotel in time for a 
good dinner. A porch extends around three 
sides of the hotel and is twenty feet wide on 
the east side, overlooking the Vernal and 
Nevada Falls, Half Dome and several other 
peaks of the higher Sierras. From here the 
view is awe-inspiring and grand beyond lan- 
guage to express. And thus ends a day to us 
of wonderful scenery, surpassing in extent, if 
not in grandeur, every other day since our 
entrance to the Yosemite Valley. 

Your loving 

MOTHERj. 



W 



36 




AMONG THE SIERRAS 

Glacier Hotel. 

At Noon, July 2, 1905. 
Dear Ones All: — 

E awoke at 4:30 this morning to 
see the first rays of sunlight upon 
the snow-capped peaks in the dis- 
tance; the rays spread gently over 
the landscape until his Majesty, the 
sun, slowly emerging from behind 
Half Dome Mountain, chased away 
the shadows from the falls and sleeping Val- 
ley. After breakfast I joined acquaintances 
of the day before, who also having walked up 
from the Valley were starting upon the trail, 
one and a half miles long, which leads to the 
top of Sentinel Dome. Although the elevation 
is nearly 1,000 feet above Glacier Point, the 
view of the Valley and surrounding country 
is well worth the climb. 

Upon our return I found that father had been 
out on the overhanging rock, which you have 
all seen in photographs, and was ready to walk 
out there with me, if I wished to go. But it is 
safer and kindlier to follow the pathway to 
the edge of the precipice at the place where the 
Government has put a strong iron railing. Here 
one can look down 3,250 feet and see the floor 
of the Valley laid out like a map. The river 
appears like a ribbon a few inches wide, and 
an orchard of well grown trees resembles a 
strawberry bed. The awful height gives an 
overpowering sense, causing one to shrink back, 
although he knows the railing is secure and 
his safety assured. 

Half Dome, across the Valley, rises nearly 
2,000 feet higher than Glacier Point, and from 
its lofty summit looks almost perpendicularly 
down into Mirror Lake, which appears from 
this point scarcely the size of a tea saucer. One 
must needs be here to appreciate the magnitude 
of this wonderful place. The time for our de- 
parture is nearing and I will say good-by. 

MOTHER. 
27 




:••=»■* 




"S|)arkliny amid the sunbeams and spray 
Page 23 

iernat ./altM 



BACK TO WAWONA 



Wawona (en route homeward). 

Sunday Eveningf, July 2, 1905. 

Dear Ones at Home: — 




ERE we are at Wawona again, after 
a long and most delightful drive 
from Glacier Point. Starting from 
there at 1:45 P. M. we skirted the 
mountain top upwards for one and 
a half miles in full view of the 
snowy heights of the upper Sierras; 
then began the descent of over 4,000 feet on 
our twenty-eight-mile drive. The mountains 
are heavily timbered with tall fir and pine, in- 
terspersed with smaller growth and occasional 
spots of meadow lands, thus forming for us a 
most beautiful landscape. A large grouse was 
seen ; and the blue jays, robins, orioles, squirrels, 
chipmunks and all nature seemed at home and 
happy. The snow upon the heights was in 
sight for many miles, and near us in one place 
patches of snow were seen on the hillside midst 
the grass and flowers that were growing close 

by. 

A very rare thing occurred in the forest just 
after we had crossed the stream, Bridal Veil 
Creek. A large cinnamon bear lumbered 
across the road several yards ahead of us, and 
quickly disappeared among the trees. We felt 
quite complimented to have Mr. Bruin favor us 
with so much consideration. We passed through 
a forest of tamarack trees, where streams were 
frequent and the ground swampy in places. 
And again we were in among numberless tall 
sugar and yellow pines, which were a source of 
unceasing admiration to our party. 

All too soon our roadway wound round the 
side of the mountain, and suddenly turned 



28 



THE YOSEMITE 

into the regular route from the Valley. The 
sweet-scented azalia gave us delicate fragrance 
as we sped along; and as we neared the Wa- 
wona Valley the sun, lowering in the heavens, 
lent a mysterious charm to the distant shadowy 
mountain sides and Valley below, where the 
atmosphere took on the hues of a dusky blue. 
We enjoyed the trip thoroughly, arriving at 
7:30 P. M., and now we are settled again for 
the night. To-morrow morning we start early 
upon the long stage ride to Raymond, where 
we take the train for Oakland. The stage ride 
is not such a hardship as is usually considered. 
The coaches and roads are of the best and the 
horses are large and strong and well cared for. 
Good-by until Fourth of July morning. 

MOTHER. 




as 



APPENDIX 
Letter from Friend dated June, 1907 

Describing Trip out of the Valley 
by the Yosemite Valley Railroad 



DOWN THE MERCED BY RAIL 



Oakland, June 30, 1907. 



Dear Friend: — 




Y 2:30 P. M. we were homeward 
bound. We left Sentinel Hotel by 
stage for El Portel, a four hours' 
ride down the Merced River, past 
Yosemite Palls, Eagle Peak, Three 
Brothers, Cathedral Rock, Three 
Graces, El Capitan, Bridal Veil Falls, 
The Cascades and the Ribbon Falls, 
on the opposite side of the river from Inspira- 
tion Point. 

The road was formed by blasting the rock, 
and is very narrow and rocky, but we enjoyed 
it among the immense pines, firs and fragrant 
evergreens, crossing numerous brooks, and al- 
ways close to the cliffs, which rise 3,000 feet 
above the floor, completely enclosing the 
valley, except for one narrow outlet. 

Passing through the Royal Arch, formed by 
the blasting, we arrive at El Portel. This is 
the terminus of the Yosemite Valley railroad, 
built on a narrow plateau made by the widen- 
ing of the rocky walls at this point. Hotel, 
depot and row of tents form a picturesque little 
hamlet in the lap of the mountains. The ac- 
commodations are all that could be desired: 
first-class table and clean, comfortable beds. 



After a good night's rest we were off for 
Merced at 7:30 in the morning, through what 
is called Mossy Canyon. The great cliffs are 
covered with a rich emerald moss, so delicate 
and beautiful. At South Fork the rare spec- 
tacle of two rushing mountain rivers, each 
issuing out of its own separate canyon in tumb- 
ling confusion is witnessed. This is one of the 

31 



THE YOvSEMITE 

prettiest features en route. Between this and 
Bagby the canyon is especially interesting; the 
steep, rocky walls draw together here, leaving 
only a very narrow, winding cleft through 
which the river descends in a series of falls, 
whirlpools, cataracts and rapids — presenting a 
picture of which one never wearies, on account 
of its variety. The grade is cut out of the rock- 
wall, about forty feet above the river, which it 
follows for nearly sixty miles. In its downward 
course from the Yosemite to the San Joaquih, 
it descends nearly 4,000 feet. The road through 
this gorge is one of the most interesting on 
the continent, and for panoramic scenery, has 
no equal. 

Leaving Bagby, we saw pyramids of large 
stones and boulders, thrown out by miners, 
while panning the rich, gold-bearing gravel. 
The banks are well worked over; this was 
done in the days of '49, yet there are quartz 
crushers here still, and we saw one stamp mill. 

The river is very rough till we come to 
the Merced Falls. As we neared Merced we 
saw a rolling country: grain, herds of grazing 
cattle and flocks of sheep, numbering thou- 
sands, drifting in a seeming endless stream. 
Some parts are covered with grape vines and 
fruit trees. 

The cost from Merced to the Valley, by rail 
and stage and return, is $18.50. From Merced 
to San Francisco, the fare is $4.05; so one may 
see the Yosemite "without a gold mine." 
We arrived in Oakland at 5.15 P. M. 

Sincerely yours, 

Mrs. E. I. 



32 




'Nearer to the foot of the Nevada Falls ' 
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